Introduction
Juliana jewelry, often recognized for its dazzling rhinestones and eye-catching designs, occupies a special place in the world of vintage costume jewelry. Despite lacking traditional maker’s marks, Juliana pieces are among the most collectible and admired designs from the mid-20th century. This post explores the history, characteristics, and lasting appeal of Juliana jewelry, with guidance for identifying authentic pieces and resources for collectors.
History and Background
Juliana jewelry was produced by the DeLizza & Elster company (commonly referred to as D&E), founded by William DeLizza and Harold Elster in 1947. Although the company made jewelry for many popular retailers and designers, the 'Juliana' name refers to a specific line launched in 1967 that was sold through catalog and department store channels. Ironically, the Juliana name was not used on the pieces themselves—identification today depends on construction and design rather than marks.
DeLizza & Elster crafted jewelry under contract for a number of brands, including Alice Caviness, Hobe, Weiss, and Celebrity. Because of this, many Juliana-style pieces are found with other brand names attached. What makes Juliana unique is not a hallmark, but its consistency of construction and aesthetic.
Period of Manufacture and Jewelry Types
The Juliana line was officially introduced in 1967 and lasted through approximately 1968, though D&E produced similar jewelry from the 1950s through the early 1970s. The brief official run of the Juliana name contributes to the line’s mystique and desirability.
Juliana jewelry includes brooches, earrings, necklaces, bracelets, and parures (sets). Designs often featured layered construction, art glass, colorful rhinestones, navette cuts, dangling elements, and specialty stones like rivoli and keystone shapes. Most pieces are bold, glamorous, and unmistakably mid-century.
White Labeling and Collaborations
DeLizza & Elster were prolific manufacturers and white-labeled their designs for well-known brands and retail chains. This includes pieces sold under the names of Tara, Kramer, and Kenneth Jay Lane, as well as store brands like Lord & Taylor and Saks Fifth Avenue. As a result, collectors often encounter Juliana-style pieces bearing other labels, adding to the challenge and excitement of identification.
How to Identify Juliana Jewelry
Authenticating Juliana jewelry requires attention to construction techniques and materials:
- **Figure-eight puddling** on the reverse (a telltale soldering pattern)
- **Open-back rhinestones**, especially on larger stones
- **No signature or maker’s mark** on the metal
- **Riveted construction**, often with decorative metalwork
- Use of **Easter egg cabochons**, **watermelon rivoli**, or **juliet stones**
Collector groups and resources have compiled image catalogs to aid identification, especially for pieces confirmed by original D&E design cards or matched sets.
Examples and Market Values
- A Juliana five-link bracelet with topaz navettes and aurora borealis stones may sell for $150–$300.
- A parure with necklace, bracelet, earrings, and brooch featuring Easter egg cabochons might reach $500–$800.
- Standalone brooches in more common colorways typically range from $75–$150.
Values can rise sharply for pieces confirmed by original cards, rare color combinations, or exquisite condition.
Why Collectors Desire Juliana Jewelry
Juliana pieces exemplify the drama and quality of postwar American costume jewelry. Their elaborate construction, use of high-end rhinestones, and trend-defining color combinations make them perennial favorites among vintage enthusiasts. Because many pieces were not signed, hunting and verifying Juliana jewelry adds to the thrill of collecting.
Additionally, many collectors were first introduced to these pieces through family heirlooms or vintage shops, creating emotional connections that fuel the passion for these treasures.
Less-Known Facts
- The name 'Juliana' was chosen not for a designer but as a marketing concept—possibly after a sales representative's suggestion.
- D&E used highly unusual materials like fluss glass (a type of art glass with embedded glitter) and 'lava stone' textures that are hard to replicate.
- Many early design prototypes still exist in private collections, used today as benchmarks for authentication.
- Original D&E design cards occasionally surface at auction and are among the most sought-after collector documentation.
Quality Resources for Collectors
- *Juliana Jewelry Reference Guide* by Ann Mitchell Pitman
- *The Art of Juliana Jewelry* by Katerina Musetti
- Juliana Identification Project (www.julianajewelry.net)
- Facebook groups such as 'Juliana Jewelry D&E Verification Help'
- Ruby Lane and Etsy for market trends and verified sellers
- Vintage fashion forums and costume jewelry collector groups
Conclusion
Juliana jewelry stands out in the crowded field of mid-century costume jewelry for its craftsmanship, exuberance, and bold personality. Though unsigned, these pieces carry a visual signature that seasoned collectors have come to know and love. Whether you're starting a new collection or deepening your knowledge, Juliana offers a rich world of sparkle, mystery, and mid-century glamour.
